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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



A PRACTICAL HAND-BOOK 

ELECTRO -PLATING 



By Eduuafd Tfeveft. 



\ 



Author of " Everybody's Hand-book of Electricity." 

" Experimental Electricity." " Electricity and its 

Recent Applications." Etc., Etc. 

jr , ., 

ILLUSTRATED. 



^OPVRIGHr^ 

AUG 23 1891 * 



1891. 
BUBIER PUBLISHING COMPANY 

LYNN, - MASS. 



p 



.1 



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COPYRIGHTED BY 

BUBIER PUBLISHING COMPANY, 

LYNN, MASS. 

18 91. 



PRESS OF 

G. H. & W. A. NICHOLS, 

LYNN, - MASS. 



PREFACE 



^Uhis little volume is destined for the use 
1 of beginners and amateurs in the art 
of electro-plating and the author has 
tried to make as complete a treatise 
of the subject as possible in so small 
a compass, hoping that the reader 
may find enough to interest and 
help him to obtain a practical knowl- 
edge of the subject. There has been 
many calls for such a work, and I 
trust that this book will help fill the 
want. Should the reader want a more 
complete treatise he will find a number 
of such works in any first-class book 
store. Among them is one that I will 
especially recommend, "The Electro- 
Platers' Hand Book," by C. E. Bonney, to 
which I am indebted for many hints and 
suggestions. 

EDWARD TREVERT. 
Lynn, Mass., Aug. 15, 1891. 



Electro -Plating, 



7~he operations carried on in the 
plating bath are substantially 
those of the voltaic battery reversed. 
In the latter case the current origi- 
nates in the cell, and its production is 
accompanied by the formation of a 
salt of one of the elements, and in 
the former case a current from an 
external source breaks up the salt in 
solution and deposits the metal in 
one of the elements. The other 
element need not necessarily be af- 
fected, and is not if it is composed 
of some substance not acted upon 
by the acid left upon the breaking 
of the salt. 

It is customary, however, to make 



8 

it of the same material as that which 
you are depositing. Otherwise the 
solution would gradually weaken as 
the operation goes on, but if an 
anode of the same metal is used it is 
dissolved as rapidly as the metal is 
freed at the other pole, and so keeps 
the solution up to its intitial strength. 

Before going further we will de- 
fine a few of the terms we shall use. 
The two poles or conducting sur- 
faces immersed in the liquid of a 
plating bath are called the anode 
and the kathode. The anode is the 
pole at which the current enters the 
bath and the kathode that at which 
it leaves. The liquid is called the 
electrolyte, and the operation in- 
cluded under the general head of 
electrolysis. 

In plating upon metals, care must 
be used in selecting an electrolyte 



9 
which will not act upon the kathode. 
Iron, for instance, when immersed 
in a solution of copper sulphate dis- 
places some of the copper in the salt 
and forms a salt by itself, with the 
acid, which covers its surface and 
prevents the plate from sticking. 
We therefore use an alkaline solu- 
tion in this case. 

The coppering bath will first be 
described, as it is perhaps oftenest 
used and is a preliminary to plating 
with some other metals. The electro- 
lyte for objects not attacked by cop- 
per sulphate is a saturated solution 
of that salt in water. To be sure of 
its being saturated, leave a few un- 
dissolved crystals of the sulphate in 
the bottom of the jar. Add a little 
sulphuric acid to make the liquid a 
better conductor. The object to be 
plated must be thoroughly cleaned 



10 



before it is placed in the bath and 
when clean must not be touched by 
the fingers or any dusty or greasy 
object. A very small trace of for- 
eign matter is sufficient to prevent the 
plate from sticking. Cleaning baths 
suitable for the different metals are 
given below : 





"Water 


Nitric 


Sulphuric 


Hydro- 
chloric 


Copper and 
Brass 


100 


50 


100 


2 


Iron 


100 


2 


8 


2 


Iron (cast; 


100 


3 


12 


3 


Zinc 


100 




10 




Silver 


100 


10 







Dip and rinse off in clean water 
several times, until the surface is 
bright and clean, and then place the 
object in the bath and start the cur- 
rent as soon after as possible. The 
plating cell must be sufficiently large 
to give the object plenty of room, so 



1 1 

that it will not touch the sides or 
bottom of the plating vat. 

It will not do to put the anode and 
cathode too close together, as the 
plate will be deposited unevenly, 
that part of the cathode nearest the 
anode receiving most. Too much 
separation is also bad, as the resist- 
ance of the cell is thereby increased 
and of course this means a waste of 
energy. Like many other things the 
knowledge of how to arrange the 
poles in the cell can be had only by 
experience. By carefully watching 
the deposit you will be able to dis- 
cover the proper j^osition for each 
object. The cell itself must be made 
of some material not attacked by the 
liquids used. Small cells are best 
made of stone ware or glass, the 
latter preferable, so that you may 
watch the operation without remov- 



12 

ing the objects from the bath. The 
arrangement of the objects in the 
bath will depend largely upon cir- 
cumstances. Often it will be found 
to be a good plan to take a sheet of 
the metal used as the anode, if it is 
not too expensive, and nearly line 
the vessel with it. This will cause 
the deposit to be more evenly dis- 
tributed on the article. 

When everything is connected up 
turn on the current. Be sure that it 
is in the right direction before pass- 
ing it through the bath. A small 
pocket compass answers very well 
for this purpose. Place it under the 
wire through which the current is 
flowing, and imagine yourself swim- 
ming in the wire, and facing the 
compass. If the north pole is de- 
flected to your left you are swim- 



l 3 
ming with the current, if to your 
right, against it. 




Figure i. 

Start up the current gradually 
and by watching the character of the 
deposit you can tell if you have the 
proper amount of current. When 
all is going along properly, the cop- 
per deposit will have a fine flesh 
tint. Too much current is indicated 
when the deposit becomes granular 
and turns a brick red. When this 
is the case, take the object out and 
wash off all loose grains and put it 
in the bath again with a reduced cur- 
rent. When you have a sufficient 
thickness of plate take it out and 



14 
wash thoroughly. If this is not 
clone the object where it is wet with 
the solution will turn a dull brown 
upon drying. 

Non-conducting objects are gen- 

'erally plated with copper first 

whether they are to be plated with 

another metal afterwards or not. 

To make the surface conducting, 
finely powdered black lead (the best) 
or finely ground gas carbon is brushed 
over the surface. This must be 
thoroughly clone, and if the deposit 
is slow about appearing at any spot, 
it should be touched by the end of 
an insulated wire attached to the 
main conductor to start the deposit. 
This of course will answer for ob- 
jects strong enough to stand the 
brushing treatment, but not for flow- 
ers, insects and other delicate things. 
They may be given a conducting 



film of silver by soaking in an alco- 
holic solution of nitrate of silver. 
This is made by shaking two parts 
of the crystals of nitrate of silver in 
100 of alcohol, with the aid of heat 
in a stoppered bottle. When dry, 
the object should be exposed to a 
stream of sulphuretted hydrogen un- 
der a hood. To prepare the sulphu- 
retted hydrogen, bring a wrought 
iron bar to a white heat, and touch 
it with a piece of stick sulphur, the 
iron will melt and drop like wax. 
Put these drops in a bottle and pour 
over them some dilute sulphuric 
acid, and the gas will at once rise 
and may be known by the resem- 
blance of its odor to that of rotten 
eggs. Lead it off through a tube to 
the place where you wish to use it, 
and when through, stop the opera- 
tion by pouring off the liquid. 



As stated above, objects so pre- 
pared should be given a preliminary- 
coat of thin copper before you try 
to plate them with anythiug else. 
To copper iron and other metals, 
attacked by the copper sulphate a 
solution is made by dissolving \ oz* 
of copper sulphate in \ pint of water, 
and adding ammonia until the pre- 
cipitate it causes is re-dissolved. Then 
add cyanide of potassium until the 
blue color disappears. A current 
strong enough to give off gas at the 
surface is required. 

Plating with silver is effected in 
the same way as above with a silver 
anode and an electrolyte composed 
as follows : Nitrate of silver, 3^ oz. 
to the gallon of solution, is dissolved 
in water. Dissolve cyanide of po- 
tassium in water, and noting the 
quantity used, add this to the silver 



i7 
solution and a precipitate of cyanide 
of silver will be formed. Keep add- 
ing this until no more precipitate is 
formed, but be careful by continual 
stirring not to get an excess in. 

Wash the precipitate upon filter 
paper by pouring water over it, and 
then dissolve it again in as much 
more cyanide solution as you first 
used, and add about 2 ozs. of the 
potassium cyanide per gallon over 
and above what you have already 
put in. The silver anodes show the 
condition of the fluid. They have a 
clear, creamy look if the solution is 
in good order, but will tarnish or 
turn pink if there is not sufficient 
free cvanide. 

The proper strength of current is 
indicated by the appearance of the 
plated objects. A clear white sur- 
face shows everything to be all right. 



i8 

Too strong a current will make the 
color yellow or gray. The adhesion 
of the silver plate is rendered more 
perfect by amalgamation of the ob- 
jects in a solution of nitrate of mer- 
cury, 1 oz. to the gallon of water. 
Gutta-percha, wax and resin are dis- 
solved in the cyanide solutions, and 
cannot therefore be used to plate 
upon, directly. 

The gold plating solution is made 
in the same way as the silver solu- 
tion, with the exception that chloride 
of gold is used in place of the ni- 
trate of silver at the start. The 
plating may be tinted by a little 
manipulation. A green tint can be 
produced by the addition of cyanide 
of silver to the solution or by the 
use of a silver anode, and a red tint 
by the use of copper. This solution 
should be worked at a temperature 



X 9 

of 1500 Fahrenheit, and the articles 
kept in constant motion. The anode 
should be a clear dead yellow when 
the solution is perfectly right. 

The nickel plating solution is the 
double sulphate of nickel and ammo- 
nia. The solution must be worked 
at as near the central point be- 
tween an acid and an alkali as 
possible. If it is either way it 
should be slightly alkaline. To test 
this, prepare some slips of blue 
litmus papers by dipping them in a 
litmus solution. If they are touched 
by an acid they will turn red and 
turn blue again in the presence of an 
alkali. Have some of each kind on 
hand to try your solution with. The 
solution will gradually become acid 
when it is worked and this tendency 
must be counteracted by the addi- 
tion of ammonia. The specific grav- 



20 

ity should be kept at 1.03 and only 
a small E. M. F. is used, so that but 
little hydrogen gas is given off. 
Hydrogen should never be given off 
in copper or silver plating, but if a 
deep color is desired on a gold plate, 
a few bubbles may be allowed to 
appear. 

The current for plating may be ob- 
tained from a number of sources. 
The best if accessible is an arc cur- 
rent, supposing that the work is 
done simply as a pastime and not as 
a regular business. In the latter 
case, special and permanent arrange- 
ments should be made for obtaining 
the necessary current. The method 
of using an arc current is to insert a 
resistance in its path and lead off the 
wires for your plating bath from each 
side of this resistance. By varying 
the resistance you can obtain any 



21 

voltage you are likely to need for 
small work. The reader need hardly 
be told, however, that an arc current 
is a dangerous thing to handle, and 
that the bare wires should never be 
handled except when they are en- 
tirely disconnected from the current 
bearing wires. Some form of plug, 
such as is used in the electric light 
stations, or a switch, which, while it 
cuts out a loop, disconnects it at the 
same time, should be used. 

The resistance can be made up 
cheaply, but effectively of a coiled 
spring of some wire, large enough to 
carry the current without overheat- 
ing. German silver is the best mate- 
rial, as it does not rust or corrode 
like iron, and so furnishes a good 
contact. The different spires of the 
spring, while not in contact one with 
another should be close enough to 





Figure 2. 



23 

firmly grip the end of the lead, wire 
to your bath. One of these lead 
wires may be firmly soldered to the 
end of the resistance coil, and the 
other wire shifted along it to get the 
desired resistance. See Fig. 2. 

This arrangement will be found to 
be well adapted for small work since 
it wastes but a small amount of 
energy. A constant potential light- 
ing circuit can be used for plating, 

but this is not at all desirable since 
only a few volts are required and 

from 90% to 95% of your energy 
must be wasted in useless resistance 
in series with the bath. If the con- 
stant potential circuit is the only one 
available, it would be better to use 
storage batteries, charging them in 
series from this circuit and plating 



24 

from them in parallel. This would 
be a very good plan where you have 
sufficient work to do to justify the 
expense of setting up the batteries. 



BATTERIES FOR ELECTRO-PLATING. 

Primary batteries are only advisa- 
ble in small work ; the Bunsen being 
a very good battery for this purpose, 
it requiring from one to six cells to 
do the work, depending on the size 
of your plating bath, the size and 
number of articles to be plated at one 
time. 

The Bunsen cell consists of a glass 
jar containing the amalgamated zinc 
cylinder and dilute sulphuric acid. 
In the inner porous cup, a carbon 
plate dips into concentrated nitric 
acid. There is no polarization for 
the hydrogen liberated at the zinc 
plate, in passing through the nitric 
acid on its way to the carbon pole 
decomposes the nitric acid, and is 
itself oxidized. Its E. M. F. is about 




BUNSEN CELL. 



27 

2 volts and its internal resistance is 
very low. It will- furnish a steady 
current for three or four hours. 

Any Bichromate battery w T ill 
answer the purpose very w T ell — the 
Grenet Battery being a good one. 

It consists of a ^glass jar or bot- 
tle. A well amalgamated zinc plate 
forms one pole and a pair of carbon 
plates, one on each side of the zinc, 
joined at the hard rubber top, forms 
the other pole. The zinc plate is , 
fixed to a brass rod, by which it can 
be drawn up out of the solution when 
not in use. To charge this battery 
proceed as follows : 

To three pints of cold water add 
five fluid ounces of sulphuric acid. 
When this becomes cold add six 
ounces (or as much as the solution 
will dissolve) of finely pulverized 
bichromate of potash. Mix well. 




GRENET BATTERY. 



2 9 

Pour this solution into the glass 
cell until it nearly reaches the 
top of the spherical part ; then draw 
up the zinc and place the element 
in the cell. The fluid should not 
quite reach the zinc when it is drawn 
up. Any desired number of these 
cells may be connected together to 
obtain the desired amount of current 
or E. M. F. 

The Taylor Battery will be found 
a very good battery ; it is a new one 
and possesses some admirable fea- 
tures which deserve more than a 
passing notice. It was gotten up to 
meet the demand for a constant, clean 
and cheap battery that would main- 
tain a large current, and the result 
seems to have been attained to a 
large degree. There is no local 
action when the cell is standing idle, 
and the zinc is thoroughly amalga- 




||:p !i ft: v!!,,i!l IHlJI !| i 



in 



•'iim ' mmM 



: 



TAYLOR BATTERY. 



3 1 
mated by a process of Mr. Taylor's 
own invention. The battery is of 
the zinc-carbon element, and is con- 
structed on a scientific basis, with 
the object of giving a large, powerful 
and steady current at a minimum 
cost. It 'is the result of twenty- 
eight years of experience in telegraph 
and electrical work. The best ma- 
terial is used and special care taken 
to insure low internal resistance. 

One feature of this battery is that 
the zinc element is wholly immersed 
in the solution. The active zinc sur- 
face in the No. 2 cell is twenty-seven 
and one-half square inches. By the 
total immersion of the zinc, about 
thirty per cent, of the outlay of that 
material is saved. The solution 
around the zinc remains clear and 
there are no creeping salts. 

A No. 2 cell (6x8 inches in size) 



3 2 
gives 1.80 volts in open circuit work, 
and delivers a current of 22.5. am- 
peres on short circuit. The internal 
resistance of the cell is only .077 
ohms. The porous cup holds one 
pint of the depolarizing solution, 
which is good for seventy ampere- 
hours at a cost of six cents. The 
cell can be set up with a saturated 
solution of common salt around the 
zinc. 

Some idea may be had of the 
power of this battery, when it is 
stated that one No. 2 cell will run an 
Edison phonograph twenty-three 
hours. It replaces thirty gravity 
cells. Two No. 2 cells and a good 
series wound motor will run a light 
sewing machine. 

These cells are admirably adapted 
to electro-plating. A No. 1 cell 
(12x7 inches) has a capacity of 350 



33 
ampere-hours, and a No. 2 cell (8x6 
inches) of 70 ampere-hours. 

Primary batteries are not advisa- 
ble except for small work. The bi- 
chromate plunge battery described 
in the author's book on u Electric 
Motors and All About Them," 
would make a good one for work of 
this description. Six cells instead of 
seven would probably be sufficient 
and instead of connecting all in series 
they could be connected two and 
two in multiple, and the three groups 
in series or three in multiple and the 
two groups in series. 

The storage cell is probably the 
best. This cell (see engraving) 
is made up of fifteen plates, eight 
negatives and seven positives, 
and is especially adapted to isolated 
and central station lighting. The 
electro-motive force of the cell is 




THE STORAGE CELL. 



35 
about two volts. The internal resist- 
ance is extremely low, say from .001 
to .005 ohm, and the range of the 
current large. 

The capacity of the cell in perfect 
condition is somewhat underesti- 
mated at 300 ampere-hours ; 30 am- 
peres, a safe working current, will last 
for over ten hours, with not exceed- 
ing 10 per cent, drop in electro-mo- 
tive force, or a less current will be 
supplied by the cell for a proportion- 
ately greater number of hours. A 
greater rate — up to 300 amperes — 
could also be obtained, but so great 
a strain upon this size of cell would 
injure the plates. 



36 



DYNAMOS FOR ELECTRO-PLATING. 

Dynamos to be used for electro- 
plating differ from those in general 
use for electric lighting in a number 
of important particulars. The ma- 
chines used for lighting purposes are 
wound so as to generate a current of 
high E. M. F., while a plating dyna- 
mo is constructed to give a current 
of large volume but of low E. M. 
F. The reasons are that a light- 
ing circuit has a high resistance, 
while the resistance in a plating cir- 
cuit is always low. A high E. M. 
F. is not desired in a electro-plating 
and this is overcome by using large 
wire in winding the dynamo and 
running it at a low speed. The 
wires of the external circuit should 



37 
be large too, so as to carry the cur- 
rent safely. 

Among the many good dynamos 
which are well adapted for electro- 
plating are the following : 

The Wood Dynamo. The en- 
graving gives a very good idea of the 
size and general appearance of the 
new improved machine. It is of the 
Gramme type. In the armature of 
this machine we have a Gramme ring 
armature. The core is usually lami- 
nated, that is, it is made up of soft 
iron discs, insulated from each other 
by thin sheets of paper. These are 
mounted on a shaft. The insulated 
copper wire is wound in sections 
around the external and internal 
periphery of the ring. The begin- 
ning and ending wire of each section 
is left long and when the ring is 
wound, the end of one section is 




WOOD DYNAMO. 



I 

39 

twisted up with and soldered to the 
beginning of the next, and so on, all 
around the ritisr. Then each twisted 
end is soldered to a separate bar of 
the commutator, of which there 
must be as many as there are sec- 
tions in the coil. Four field magnets' 
cores are used, so as to form the 
four corner yokes between two up- 
right square castings, which form the 
frame work of the machine. The 
two upper cores are connected to one 
pole-piece, and the two lower to 
another. The field magnet coils are 
so wound as to produce a north pole 
in the piece above, and a south pole 
in the piece below. The current is 
continuous and is well adapted to 
electro-plating. 

The Eddy Dynamo Electric ma- 
chines for electro-plating and elec- 
tro-typing have always enjoyed an 



40 

excellent regulation. They have 
been modified and improved from 
time to time; the latest ones rank 
high for efficiency, simplicity and 
workmanship. In this machine the 
ring form of magnet (Mather Pa- 
tents), and Siemen's armature is 
used. The field is always charged 
when the machine is running, so 
deposition begins as soon as the con- 
nection is made. Owinor to the 
method of winding, it is impossi- 
ble for them to reverse. 

Plug switches are placed on the 
bases of Nos. 1 and 2, and the prin- 
ciple on which they work is to lessen 
the resistance of the field, and so 
keep it from cutting out when heav- 
ily loaded. In using the switch, both 
plugs should be in outside holes 
when running on a small amount of 
work, and as the work increases to 



4i 
the point where the deposition is 
slow, one plug should be put in the 
slotted hole marked No. 1, and as 
the surface in the tanks is aojain in- 
creased, the other plug should be 
put in the hole No. 2. The No. 3 
machine is controlled by a switch as 
above, or by a separate exciter in 
special cases, and is under perfect 
control whether it is doing a small or 
large amount of work. 

The shafts are of tool steel, and 
are ground on dead centres, which 
insures uniformity. The bearings 
are of a very hard composition, and 
are self-oiling, they contain flat rings 
which run on the shaft and carry oil 
from the reservoir below. The pet- 
cock under the bearings should be 
opened every morning and the old 
oil allowed to run out, then closed 
and refilled from the oil cups until it 




EDDY ELECTROPLATING DYNAMO. 



43 
fills the recess in the yoke at the end 
of the shaft. This should last all 
day. The bearings must not be 
allowed to run dry. Use a thin 
pliable belt, the full width of the 
pulley, and not have it drawn tightly. 
The pulleys are large enough to do 
the proper amount of work without 
being tight against the belt. A 
stiff, heavy belt would have to be 
drawn tightly, and would, in conse- 
quence, wear out the bearing sleeves. 
The commutator segments are 
solid, and extend down to the shaft, 
and with proper care will last a very 
long time. The brushes should be 
set sq that the point of contact on the 
commutator of the top and bottom 
brushes shall be diametrically oppo- 
site. Adjust the brushes to insure 
a light but sure contact. Do not set 
them hard enough to cut the commu- 



44 
tator. File the ends to a bevel that 
will bear flat on the commutator and 
keep them so. Do not have the 
bevel at such an angle that only the 
front edge of the brush, or perhaps 
one corner, bears on the commutator. 
Such a condition of the brushes is 
liable to produce sparking. If they 
are properly trimmed and set, the 
machine will run without sparks. Do 
not let the brushes and commutator 
get gummed up with oil. All the 
working current passes through the 
brushes and a good contact between 
brushes and commutator is indispen- 
sable. Keep the commutator clean. 
Do not deluge it with oil. Shift the 
brushes occasionally to a different 
place on the commutator, so as to 
wear all parts alike, and not cut 
channels or grooves in it. In setting 
the brushes, make allowance for the 



45 
end chase of the shaft, and set them 
far enough from the end of the com- 
mutator so that there will be no pos- 
sibility of contact between either 
brush and the commutator head. For 
lubricating the commutator, we 
recommend haying a piece of felt 
which has been soaked in lard-oil, 
and then had plumbago worked into 
it, which, if occasionally rubbed over 
the surface will keep it in good con- 
dition. A good oil for bearings is a 
28 degrees mineral oil. Under no 
circumstances use an animal or a 
vegetable oil. 

The armature is supported in the 
magnet field by yokes supported by 
rods connected to magnet, so render- 
ing it impossible for it to get out of 
line. 



4 6 



CLEANING ARTICLES. 

It is of the utmost importance that 
absolute cleanliness be observed to 
obtain success in all electro-plating 
operations. This must be done by 
both mechanical and chemical means, 
so as to be sure that the article to be 
plated is free from all dust, grease, 
or any foreign matter. Tarnished 
silver or discolored gold may be 
cleaned by immersing the article in 
a hot solution of cyanide of potas- 
sium. A strong warm solution of 
carbonate of ammonia will loosen 
the tarnish on silver, so that it may 
be removed with a brush. Corroded 
copper, brass, German silver, etc., 
should be first immersed in a solu- 
tion composed of sulphuric acid 



47 
three pints, nitric acid If pints, 
water 4 pints. This soon loosens 
and dissolves the corrosion. Cor- 
roded zinc should first be immersed 
in a solution composed of sulphuric 
acid, 1 oz., hydrochloric acid, 2 ozs., 
distilled or rain water, 1 gallon. 
Rusty iron or steel should be first 
pickled in solution of sulphuric acid, 
6 ozs., hydrochloric acid, 1 oz., water, 
1 gal. When the rust has been re- 
moved, immerse the object in a solu- 
tion composed of sulphuric acid, 1 
pint, added to 1 gal., of distilled or 
rain water, in which \ lb. of sul- 
phate of zinc has been previously dis- 
solved. Such metals as lead, tin and 
pewter may be cleaned by immers- 
ing them in a hot solution of caus- 
tic soda or caustic potash. When 
any article is cleaned, be sure and 
not let it come in contact with the 



4 8 

hands or fingers, as the greasy secre- 
tions of the body will stick to the 
metal and cause the coat of deposited 
metal to strip off in spots. Care 
inust be taken in handling caustic 
solutions, as they will burn the skin 
and tissues of the body. 



49 



FINISHING THE ARTICLES PLATED. 

In silver plating, when the article 
is removed from the plating solution 
it should be held over the vat and 
shaken gently a moment, so as to 
remove the solution that may adhere 
to it, after which it should imme- 
diately be plunged into hot water 
and rinsed thoroughly. It now must 
be allowed to dry slowly. When 
the article is perfectly dry it should 
be brushed rapidly with a brush and 
some fine silver polishing powder (a 
tooth brush will answer the purpose 
very well), until the opaque white 
gives place to a silver lustre. It is 
then ready for burnishing. This 
may be done by simple friction with 
a steel hand burnisher. While using 



So 
the burnisher it should be often 
dipped into a dish of soap and water, 
thus enabling the burnisher to glide 
smoothly over the deposited metal 
on the article plated. If this were 
not done, the motion of hard steel 
would tend to separate the deposited 
silver from the article plated. Care 
should be taken in keeping the bur- 
nisher bright and clean, for should it 
become rusty it would scratch the 
plated articles. Small articles, such 
as studs, sleeve buttons, finger rings, 
etc., may be polished in the following 
manner : They are placed in a long 
canvas bag with some dry sawdust 
and well shaken by two persons, one 
at each end. One end of the bag may 
be attached to a post or wall, and the 
other shaken up and down until the 
articles are polished. 



5 1 



PREPARING OLD WORK. 

By old work we mean articles 
where the plate is very much worn, 
thereby exposing the real surface 
largely. 

In order to make a finish on such 
work it is necessary to remove all 
the old plate. In many cases it may 
be removed with a scratch brush 
and rotten-stone, but as a rule it 
may be removed much quicker and 
cleaner by acids. 

Silver may be removed from cop- 
per, brass or German silver in the 
following manner: Add to 2 qts. 
of strong sulphuric acid 1 oz. of ni- 
trate of potash, stir in the potash and 
immerse the article; should the 
action become weak before the sil- 



5 2 
ver is removed apply more heat and 
saltpetre. Gold may be removed 
from silver by heating the article to 
redness and throw it into dilated 
sulphuric acid ; this will cause the 
gold to peel and fall off very easily. 



53 



QUICKING ARTICLES. 

This is done by the use of mercury 
solutions- For copper, brass or Ger- 
man silver prepare a solution as fol- 
lows : To one pound of nitric acid 
add three times its volume of pure 
distilled or rain water, pour this upon 
an ounce of mercury, a little at a 
time, with stirring, until all the mer- 
cury is dissolved ; dilute the whole 
with one gallon of water. 

Zinc articles should be coated in 
a solution as follows : Dissolve an 
ounce of nitrate of mercury in 2 
gallons of water, mixed with 4 oz. of 
sulphuric acid. 

As a thick coating of mercury will 
cause metal to strip after the plating 
is done, it is of the utmost impor- 



54 
tance that these solutions contain 
only enough mercury to give the arti- 
cle the thinnest coating possible ; arti- 
cles upon being removed from the 
quicking solution, should present a 
uniformly white appearance. If they 
are spotted the surface is either 
greasy or the solution is badly made. 
A good coating will stand burnish- 
ing. A good test of a quicking 
liquid is to immerse in it a clean 
copper plate ; if the plate becomes 
white soon with a thin, closely adher- 
ent coating the liquid is right. If 
the coating is black or bad in color 
the liquid is not properly made or is 
exhausted. 



55 



ELECTRO-TYPING. 

By electro-typing is meant that 
process ,of electro-plating an article 
with a metal coating, generally cop- 
per, of sufficient thickness that it 
may be removed and form an inde- 
pendent object, which will be an 
exact copy. It is in fact a complete 
fac simile of the object in reverse. 
To obtain a positive copy, a cast has 
to be taken from the negative. This 
negative is called the mould or 
matrix. There are a number of 
processes, among them the Adams 
process, which is used to a great 
extent, a description of which will 
give the reader a general idea of the 
art. 



56 

# This process, which was patented 
in 1870 is said to give a perfect con- 
ducting surface to wax moulds with 
greater certainty and rapidity than 
any other, and will accomplish in a 
few minutes that which plumbago 
alone would require from two to 
four hours. The process is con- 
ducted as follows : While the mould 
is still warm in the moulding case, 
apply freely powdered tin (tin bronze 
powder, or white bronze powder) 
with a soft brush until the surface 
presents a bright, metallic appear- 
ance ; then brush off the superfluous 
powder. The form of type or wood- 
cut is then plumbago ed, and an im- 
pression or mould taken in the wax 
as before described, the mould being 
built up and connected as before. 
The tin powder is now to be brushed 

*Electro-Deposition by A. L. Watt. 



57 
over it either by hand or machine, 
and the superfluous tin blown away 
by the bellows, after which the build- 
ing-iron is applied for stopping all 
parts upon which the copper is not to 
be deposited. The mould is then 
to be immersed in alcohol, then 
washed in water " to remove the air 
from the surface," when it is ready 
to be immersed in a solution pre- 
pared as follows : Fill a depositing 
tank nearly full of water, keeping 
account of the number of gallons 
poured in ; hang a bag of crystals 
of sulphate of copper until the water 
is saturated ; for every gallon of 
water used, add from half a pint to 
three gills of sulphuric acid, and mix 
the whole thoroughly. In this solu- 
tion hang a sheet of copper, con- 
nected to the positive pole of the 
battery, and when the solution be- 



58 
comes cool and settled, immerse the 
mould and connect it with the nega- 
tive electrode, when the surface of the 
mould will be quickly covered with 
thin copper. Then remove for com- 
pletion to another and larger deposit- 
ing vat, containing a solution made 
in the proportion of one pound of 
sulphate of copper and one gill of 
sulphuric acid to each gallon of 
water. If crystals of sulphate of 
copper form on the copper plate in 
the first depositing vat, disconnect it 
and dissolve them off, substituting 
for it a clean plate. 

Since, in the above process, the tin 
powder becomes dissolved and enters 
into the solution, when this liquid 
becomes saturated with tin, after 
being long in use, it must be cast 
aside and replaced by fresh solution. 
The tin powder may be employed 



59 
as a substitute for plumbago, with- 
out chano;in£ from one bath to 
another, thus : After the mould has 
received the desired impression, it is 
taken to the plumbago table, and 
held faee downward, with one end 
resting on the table, while the other 
is supported by the hand. It is then 
struck on the back several times to 
loosen the black lead that is pressed 
on the wax while moulding, and all 
the fine dust that may cling to the 
mould must be blown away. After 
building up and making all connec- 
tions, it is to be placed in the hand- 
case or plumbagoing machine, and 
the tin powder applied in the same 
way as plumbago. Both the machine 
and hand-case should be kept free 
from plumbago, the tin powder be- 
ing only used to metallize the sur- 
face of the mould. If the machine 



6o 

be used, place the mould, or moulds, 
on the carriage, cover well over with 
tin powder, close the door, and run 
once forward and backward under 
the vibrating brush ; then turn the 
moulds round, put on more tin pow- 
der, and run through again. It takes 
three minutes for the whole opera- 
tion. The tin powder is to be 
beaten out on the table used for this 
powder as before, and then thor- 
oughly well blown out. Instead of 
using the building iron for stopping 
off, any suitable varnish, or an alco- 
holic solution of sealing-wax may be 
used. To prevent the copper de- 
posit from being broken over lines of 
set up type, the lines may be whetted 
with a dilute solution of nitrate of 
mercury, or with a cyanide quicking 
solution used in preparing work for 
plating. A further deposit is then 



6i 

given in the sulphate of copper bath. 
In the depositing bath the solution 
employed is a saturated solution of 
sulphate of copper, acidulated with 
sulphuric acid, and large copper 
anodes are suspended in the bath, 
between which the cases containing 
the prepared moulds are suspended, 
back to back, so that the faces of the 
moulds may be directly opposite the 
anodes. The time occupied in ob- 
taining the electro deposit of copper 
depends upon the power of the cur- 
rent employed and the thickness of 
metal desired. For ordinary book 
or job work, the shell of copper 
should be about the thickness of good 
book paper, and this should be ob- 
tained in from three to five hours. 
Electros for newspaper titles, and 
such blocks as are subjected to much 
use, should receive a stouter deposit. 



62 

When the mould has received the 
requisite deposit, it is to be removed 
from the bath, and is next to be 
separated from the wax composition. 
This is done by placing the mould in 
an inclined position, and passing a 
stream of hot water over the copper 
surface, which, by softening the wax 
enables the copper shell to be stipped 
off, by raising it from one corner 
while the hot water is passing over 
the mould. The shell should be re- 
moved with care and must not be 
allowed to bend in the least degree. 
The thin film of wax which adheres 
to the face of the electro is removed 
by placing it upon a wire rack, rest- 
ing on a vessel containing a solution 
of caustic potash, which is poured 



63 
over the electro by means of a ladle, 
the liquor returning to the vessel 
beneath. The potash has the effect 
of dissolving the wax in a short time, 
after which the electro is well rinsed 
in cold water. 



6 4 



CARE IN HANDLING POISONS. 

Many of the substances used in 
electro-plating are of a highly poison- 
ous nature, and for that reason the 
author would caution the reader not 
to dip his hands into cyanide baths, 
or let the fingers or hands come in 
contact with cyanide solutions, espec- 
ially should there be a recent cut or 
scratch on them, as painful affections 
are liable to arise in the form of 
sores from this cause. Cyanide so- 
lutions being a caustic, act very 
freely on the delicate tissues of the 
skin, but more especially upon the 
parts under the finger nails. 

Never add an acid to any liquid con 



65 
taining cyanide or ferro-cyanide in a 
closed apartment. This should always 
be done in the open air, taking care 
not to inhale the gases that arise, 
which are very poisonous. 



66 



SOME TOOLS NEEDED FOR ELECTRO- 
PLATING, 

Burnisher. An instrument con- 
sisting of a hard steel blade with a 
wooden handle, used in producing a 
polish by friction on articles after 
they have been plated. 

Galvanometer. An apparatus for 
measuring the strength, or to ascer- 
tain the direction of an electric cur- 
rent by the deflection of a magnetic 
needle. 

Hydrometer. A glass instrument 
resembling a thermometer, and is 
used for testing the specific gravity 
of liquids. 

Potash Brush. This is made of 
cotter* fibre with a wooden back and 
handle. Any animal fibre would 



67 
soon get soft, dissolve and wear 
away. It is used to clean the arti- 
cles to be plated from dust, grease, 
etc. 

Polishing Brush. Made of bris- 
tles, with a wooden or bone back and 
handle, to be used with dry silver 
polishing powder in polishing articles, 
after they have been plated. 

Thermometer. To ascertain the 
right temperature of the gilding 
solution. It must be made wholly 
of glass, as any metal would dissolve 
in the hot solution. 

Many other tools and articles to 
be used in this art will suggest them- 
selves to the reader as he progresses. 






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One Polishing Brush. 

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JUST PUBLISHED. 



A Practical Treatise 

ON THE 

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By J. E. RANDALL. 

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New and Practical Book. 

Dynamos and Electric 

;^oto:r,s, 

AND ALL ABOUT THEM. 

BY EDWARD TREVERT. 

Nearly lOO Illustrations. 

This volume not only gives practical direc- 
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motors, but also contains a large quantity of 
information about them. 

It is particularly adapted to beginners in 
this absorbing science. 



CHAP. I. What is a Dynamo ?— What is a Motor ? 

CHAP. II. Some different types of dynamos. 

CHAP. III. How to construct a dynamo. 

CHAP. IV. Some different types of electric motors. 

CHAP. V. How to build an electric motor. 

CHAP. VI. A cheaply constructed electric motor. 

CHAP. VII. How to make an electric battery for 
running electric motors. 

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E xperimental Efcctrlcllu, 

By Edward Trevert. 

Author of "Everybody's Hand-book of Electricity." 
and "How to make Electric Batteries at Home." 

1 76 Pages. 1 OO Illustrations. 

It will give practical information on the fol- 
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Chap. 1.— Some Easy Experiments in Electricity 
and Magnetism. 

" 2.— How to Make Electric Batteries. 

" 3.— How to Make a Galvanometer. 

" 4.— How to Make an Induction Coil. 

11 5.— How to Make an Electric Bell. 

" 6.— How to Make, a Magneto Machine. 

" 7.— How to Make a Telegraph Instrument. 

" 8.— How to Make an Electric Motor. 

" 9.— How to Make a Dynamo. 

" 10.— Electric Gas Lighting and Bell Fitting. 
Some practical directions for Ama- 
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" 11.— Some information in regard to Electric 
Lamps. 

" 12.— Glossary of Electrical Terms. 



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Alternate Current Machinery. By Gisbert 
Kapp, Assoc. M. Inst. C. E. 

Steam Boiler Explosions. By Zerah Colburn. 

A Treatise on, the Compound Engine. By 
John Turnbull, Jr. 2d Edition. With Addi- 
tions by Prof. S. W. Robinson. 

Safety Valves. By Richard H. Buel, C. E. 

A Practical Treatise on the Teeth of Wheels, 
with the 'I heory of the Use of Robinson's 
Odontography By Prof. S. W. Robinson. 

Terrestrial Magnetism and the Magnetism of 
Iron Ships. By Prof. Fairman Rogers. 

A Hand, Book of the Electro- Magnetic Tele- 
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Turbine Wheels. By Prof. W. P. Trowbridge. 

The Telescope-. Its Construction, &c. By 
Thomas Nolan. 

Induction Coils: How Made and How Used. 
3d Edition. 

Incandescent Electric Lights. By Compte Th. 
Du Moncel and Wm. Henry Preece. 2d Edi- 
tion. 

The Theory of the Gas Engine. By Dugald 
Clerk. 

Electro- Magnets. By Th. du Moncel. 

Dynamo Electric Machinery. By S. P. Thomp- 
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Dynamic Electricity. By John Hopkinson, 
J. A. Schoolbred and R E. Day. 

Recent Progress in Dynamo-Electric Machines. 
Being a supplement to Dynamo-Electric Ma- 
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Hand Book of Mineralogy; Determination and 
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Everybody's Handbook of Electricity. 

How to make Electric Batteries at Home. 

Experimental Electricity. 

Dynamos and Electric Motors. 

ELECTRICITY 

AND ITS 

Recent Applications. 

Containing- nearly 350 Pages and 
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